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Gardening Blogs

05 July 2020

Gardening Blogs
  • Organic Pest Control That Really Works
    05 July 2020

    You may be reading this post because you are looking for a quick fix to a pest problem you are facing in the garden. There are organic pest control solutions that really work (I list them below).

    It is important to understand the importance of healthy soil and plants as it relates to common pests in the garden. Healthy plants and soil are the best defense against pests. Pests often choose plants that are weakened in some way.

    Before you decide which action to take, read through these 8 tips for effective organic pest control and prevention in the garden.

    Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See mydisclosure policy for more information.

    Effective organic pest control tip #1: Focus on healthy soil

    Healthy plants in soil that is rich in organic matter and nutrients, and that are watered correctly with plenty of sunlight and airflow, are much less susceptible to pests. In contrast, sickly plants struggling in depleted soil, that are treated with chemical fertilizers, are much more likely to have pests. 

    Test soil at least once a year to determine soil fertility and pH. When the nutrient levels and soil pH are correct, this prevents stress which then reduces pest problems. This is the soil test kit I use

    Effective organic pest control tip #2: Keep your garden clean

    Remove dead leaves, fallen fruit, and other debris that provide refuge for pests. This will help prevent major infestations. Remove and throw away infested plants; don’t add them to your compost pile.

    Effective organic pest control tip #3: Keep plants healthy
    Effective organic pest control tip #4: Enlist Mother Nature’s help
    Ladybug Larvae
    Bee Assassin Bug
    Lacewing eggs
  • Summer Gardening Slowdown
    05 July 2020
    Double Delight rose
    Repotted succulents
    Tomato planted in a basin between two 5-gallon nursery pots that release water a good foot down directly to the plant's root system - so it has no problem thriving during stretches of 95+ temperatures
    Crookneck squash sown between 5-gallon nursery pots to supply water a good foot down directly to the root systems.
    First figs from a rooted cutting from a friend's tree
    Stella d'Oro mini daylily
    August Pride peach
    Hoya bloom
    Another hoya's bloom
    Parrot alstroemeria blooms now, much later than most other varieties in April and May
    Brugsmania double bloom
    Iochroma coccinea
    Praying Mantid just hanging out
      With our 90+ degree days becoming more plentiful, paired with fewer inches of winter rains and more expensive water prices, I’ve reduced the amount of gardening I initiate during the summer.  
             Whereas I used to plant second or third batches of tomatoes and beans and cukes and squashes in late June, since our droughty weather for the last 6 or so years, I’ve given up adding anything new now that July is here.  
         The June-planted and sown veggies barely survived in the last several years, much less thrived.  And last year’s couple of 116-degree days wiped out several tomato plants and fruit trees, despite my heavy irrigating and mulching.      
         So what to do in the garden, especially now that I don’t thrive in the heat or bright sun anymore, so my gardening time is an hour or two after 6pm when the sun has crested the hill to my south, and my garden is in shade.  Very pleasant time to be outdoors! And this is just enough time to do any of a selection of activities before my arthritis decides that I’ve done enough for the evening.
         Here’re some of my projects.

    Trimming Roses.
         The first flush of blooms has finished, so I've trimmed the long branches back to an out-facing leaf to encourage more new shoots and flowers to develop.
    Repotting My Succulent Collection.  
         I’ve loved cleaning off root zones of old potting soil (saving it for the compost pile layers on top of the green stuff before layering the brown stuff), matching colors and textures and sizes with decorative pots that I’ve collected over the years, and placing them back on my sunny concrete growing area where I can enjoy them from my computer.
         As a side benefit, I’ve ended up with many babies that I’ve either included with the repotted mother plants or potted up separately for sharing later whenever we gardeners can gather again. 
         I must admit that this time around with repotting, I’ve gotten rid of almost all of the prickly ones – they’ve just grown too large to handle easily without getting stabbed, so I’ve passed them along to other gardeners.
         It’ll be another five years or so before the collection grows too much like a jungle and so I’ll have to repot them.  In the meantime, the plants are enjoying their increased root space and new neighbors!  And I'm loving seeing them thrive and as each comes into bloom.
    Watering Tomato Plants
         I water my tomatoes using two methods which keep plants happy even during a week or more of 95+ air temperatures before needing to be watered again:
    1.  Directly into the sunken basin where they were planted so the water sinks directly down around the root system which grows straight down following the water. 
    ​2.  Into the 5-gallon plastic nursery pots that are buried almost up to their rims, allowing the water to release out at the bottom into the soil a good foot down, directly to the root system.     I do have to pull out some of the soil mix that’s “melted” down next to the base of the plants every other time I water, to form a larger basin that will hold more water.  Even when this reveals some of the roots, the next watering will "melt" more of the soil to cover those roots.
          While the hose is placed in the nursery pots, I use the couple of minutes that it takes to fill them with water to tuck tomato branches under the rungs of the tomato cages.  This is best done before watering, when the branches are somewhat limp and can be wrangled under the cage rungs.  If I attempt to do this the next day, when the plants are again turgid from the day-before’s watering, the branches tend to break more, especially when they're long and don't bend easily.
         And as of July 1, we’ve begun harvesting – 20 Sungold tomatoes and 3 Celebrity tomatoes.  Finally!
    Watering and Sowing More Squash Plants
         We’ve been enjoying crookneck squashes for more than a month from the first batch of seeds that I’d sown back in March, with continued watering both at the soil level and in the buried 5-gallon nursery pots between plants.  But, now the harvest from this first planting is slowing down.
         Coming into bearing just in time is the second batch of seeds that I’d sown when the first batch started bearing, so this seems to be good timing to have consecutive bearing without much overlap of too many squashes. 
         Now I’ll sow another batch of seeds.  We’ll see whether they germinate and then thrive and bear in another couple months of this hot summer weather.
     Watering Fig Trees
         Following those extreme-droughty years and loss of several stone-fruit trees, last year I concentrated on planting more varieties of fig trees.  We now have these Celeste, Conadria, Kadota, Mission, Panache/Tiger Stripe, Peter’s Honey, Texas Everbearing, Violette de Bordeaux, and an unknown variety from a cutting from a friend’s tree.  
    ​     We love figs, they produce well even with less attention to watering, and each of the varieties bears at a slightly different time, so we’re looking forward to a nice selection of yummies!

    ​For other July garden task possibilities, see July.   

  • Do you love or hate hydrangeas? The facts vs the myths
    05 July 2020

    For a flower that is both adored and deplored, hydrangeas are not very well understood. Naomi Slade has written a beautiful and definitive guide, called Hydrangeas (published by Pavilion Books)....

    The post Do you love or hate hydrangeas? The facts vs the myths appeared first on The Middle-Sized Garden.

  • Lighting Up Your Garden to Complement Diverse Flora
    05 July 2020

    The beauty of a garden comes from its unique bounty. You might grow a diverse assortment of perennials and annuals, while your neighbor tends flowering bushes and colorful ground-level accents. No matter what your green thumb grows, it’s worth showing off—even at night. And, just like your garden is unique and diverse, so too are […]

    The post Lighting Up Your Garden to Complement Diverse Flora appeared first on AGreenHand.

  • How to Control Gray Mold on Strawberries
    05 July 2020

    Gray mold, also known as Botrytis fruit or Botrytis flower rot, is one of the most difficult strawberry pathogens to control if the environmental conditions are right for infection.

    Unfortunately, the fungus that causes this disease, Botrytis cinerea, is very common in strawberries throughout the world.

    The disease can lurk in the plants without causing any symptoms, waiting to strike when the fruit are ripe. It can attack while the fruits are still on the plants, as well as after harvest.

    To make things worse, there are many different strains of Botrytis, and most of them are resistant to at least one fungicide, if not more.

    However, there are options available for control. We’ll help you manage your strawberry plants, so you have a fighting chance of overcoming this pathogen.

    Botrytis Rot on Strawberries Can Lurk Undetected

    You may have strawberry plants that look perfectly healthy but have undetectable dormant Botrytis infections. This is what’s known as a latent infection.

    This is frequently the case with young growing leaves, which will look fine until they mature and start to decline. At that point, the fungus starts growing and symptoms appear.

    And it can be the case with the fruit, too. They may be fine until they start to expand and develop.

    Fully ripe fruit are highly susceptible, and can be infected during harvest if they come into contact with another that has the disease.


    The symptoms of gray mold on strawberries can vary depending on the state of the tissue and what part of the plant is infected.

    The portions of the leaves that are dead will look like they are covered in gray velvet.

    Flowers will have brown, discolored lesions on their petals, sepals, and the central part of the flower that will develop into the fruit (the pedicel). The infection can spread and kill the pedicel, so no fruit will develop.

    Symptoms on the young fruit start with light brown decay appearing on the flower end.

    Ripe fruit can be completely covered in spores that have the appearance of gray velvet. These spores can spread to nearby fruit – a condition called “nesting.” This can result in clusters of diseased fruit.

    Damaged fruit are especially likely to become infected, even after harvest.

    The infected fruit will eventually shrivel up and become hard, but they will remain attached to the plant and can continue to spread the infection.

    Biology of Botrytis Cinerea

    This versatile fungus can infect more than 200 different kinds of plants. It spreads by spores that are easily splashed in water, blown by the wind, or transferred by mechanical activity.

    Damp weather and high humidity are ideal conditions for the development of this disease.

    The fungus overwinters by forming dormant structures called sclerotia. Sclerotia are roundish in shape, about half an inch in diameter, and are able to tolerate cold, warm, and dry conditions.

    In the spring, if conditions are right, the sclerotia will emerge from dormancy and germinate to produce new spores.

    Postharvest Fruit Losses

    Losses during strawberry handling can be substantial, and there are three reasons for this:

    1. The fruit look perfectly healthy but have a latent infection that only manifests after the fruit have been harvested.
    2. The fruit already had damaged portions or became injured during picking. If these harvested fruits are contaminated with spores, they can develop gray mold.
    3. The fruit are perfectly healthy, but they are growing next to contaminated fruit, that will spread the disease.
    Control Methods

    Gray mold is extremely difficult to control. Even fungicide treatments can be ineffective. However, there are measures you can take to limit the spread.

    Cultural Control

    Many of the effective cultural controls involve reducing the amount of moisture on your plants, and appropriate sanitation practices to minimize its spread.

    Minimize Moisture

    Plant your strawberries in full sun and make sure to purge any weeds from the planting area. This will help to improve the airflow around your plants, so they will be less moist and thus less easily infected.

    Provide adequate spacing around your plants, to allow for good airflow.

    Mulch with straw to limit aboveground plant contact with the soil and to prevent spores from being splashed up onto your plants by rain or irrigation.

    Choose cultivars that produce smaller leaf canopies such as ‘Allstar, ‘Earliglow,’ or ‘Jewel.’

    You can learn more about different strawberry cultivars here.

    If you irrigate your strawberries, it is very important to use drip irrigation rather than overhead sprinklers. This limits the amount of free moisture on the plants.

    Do not fertilize with nitrogen in the spring. You risk having the leaves grow too well and ending up with a shaded, dense, and moist canopy that can lead to high levels of infection.

    Instead, apply the nitrogen after harvest and then again in late summer.

    You have an advantage if you are growing in a high tunnel or greenhouse, where plants are protected from rainfall and dew that may spread infection.

    Practice Good Sanitation

    While this is not practical for commercial growers, home gardeners have an advantage in terms of being able to employ the best sanitation practices.

    If you only have a few plants, focus on removing dead leaves throughout the season to limit the risk of infection.

    You will want to remove infected berries as soon as possible. In fact, conventional growers have been advised to hire someone to go through and pick the diseased berries each hour, so that other pickers will not accidentally contaminate the good fruit.

    Be sure to check your plants thoroughly every day, if you can, particularly in wet conditions.

    Clean up all the dead leaves, and remove the plants at the end of the season and dispose of them, so they won’t carry the fungus over to the next growing season.

    Treatment with Fungicides

    Individual strains of Botrytis cinerea are notorious for being resistant to multiple types of fungicides. And in some cases, fungicides that work at the beginning of the season lose their effectiveness towards the end.

    Strains across the country vary in their resistance, and universities and county agricultural commissioner’s offices test the local strains to see what fungicides they are resistant to.

    If you want to treat your strawberry plants with fungicides, your best bet is to contact your local extension office to find out which ones are options for you.

    However, there are several newer fungicides that show great promise in treating this disease, particularly isofetamid, which outperformed competing fungicides in 2018 and 2019 trials at the Strawberry Center at Cal State Poly in San Luis Obispo.

    Another option is to choose a fungicide like thiram or captan that has multiple targets in the fungus. If a fungicide only affects a single aspect of the fungal biology, the pathogen can quickly evolve resistance.

    The New York State Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Publication on Organic Production and IPM Guide for Strawberries states that research in the state “has consistently shown that excellent gray mold control can be obtained” with two sprays of fungicide – one applied at early bloom and another 10 days later.

    However, if the weather is conducive to the disease (wet, humid, or foggy), continued protection via additional applications may be required.

    Read more about rotating fungicides to prevent resistance.

    Organic Chemical Treatments

    Experts vary in whether they recommend the use of organic compounds to treat gray mold on strawberries.

    Copper Octanoate

    The NYS strawberry guide cited above recommends copper octanoate, stating that it was found to be effective in some research studies. This compound is available in the form of Cueva Fungicide Concentrate.

    JMS Stylet Oil

    The strawberry guide also states that JMS stylet oil had been effective in some studies.

    JMS Stylet Oil from Arbico Organics

    However, the authors caution that you may need to use a high volume of water to thoroughly cover your strawberry plants.

    This compound is available from Arbico Organics.


    Biofungicies contain bacteria or fungi that inhibit the development of Botrytis. Some studies have found them to be consistently effective, while others found they worked in some cases, but not all.

    Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens

    Strain D747 of this bacterium has been used to control gray mold, and is available as Double Nickel 55 and Double Nickel LC.

    Trichoderma Harzianum

    UMass Extension’s Strawberry IPM manual for gray mold, written by Angela Madeiras and Sonia Schloemann, reports that products containing Trichoderma harzianum as an active ingredient are used effectively to control the disease in Europe and Israel.

    Formulations containing this fungus are available from Arbico Organics.

    Streptomyces Lydicus

    Actinovate-AG may help to control gray mold. It is more likely to work if you apply it with a spreader or sticker as a preventative measure, before infection has taken hold.

    Botrytis Rot of Strawberry Is a Worldwide Problem

    Botrytis infections are a problem throughout the world, and strains of this fungus frequently develop resistance to many of the fungicides used to control it.

    However, there are steps you can take to minimize an infection, such as limiting the amount of moisture on your strawberry plants. There are also a number of microbes that you can use as biofungicides to outcompete the fungus.

    It is critical to purge any infected strawberries, so they won’t contaminate the rest of your harvest.

    Have you had problems with gray mold in your strawberries? Let us know in the comments below!

    And for more information about controlling pests and disease, check out these guides next:


    © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. With additional writing and editing by Clare Groom and Allison Sidhu.

    The post How to Control Gray Mold on Strawberries appeared first on Gardener's Path.

  • How To Grow Tomatoes
    04 July 2020
    Warm-Season Vegetables: Tomatoes

    Tomatoes are the go-to warm-season vegetable that many new gardeners grow first. It is easy, and the results of eating your homegrown tomatoes is very satisfying. Whether you wish to grow from seed or buy a tomato plant in a pot all-ready with a tomato support frame is a choice based on your time and the space available. Here we will go over all the necessary steps to grow tomatoes from seed or purchase a young plant from the garden centre. There are various tips for growing tomato plants to ensure you get the best harvest from your tomato plant.

    Tomatoes At A Glance

    Type: Annual

    Location: Full Sun

    Fruit season: Summer

    Where To Plant / How To Care For Your Tomato Plant

    Tomatoes are heat lovers and like sun, lots of sun. Whether you have a vegetable bed, patio or a balcony garden, the location must be sunny. Anything less than six hours of direct sun will not be to your plants’ best interest for a good harvest. So the location where you plant your tomato is very important.

    Growing tomatoes from seed is easy. Although some gardeners have used a heat mat, I find success with just using a heat lamp or warm sunny south-east facing window. The indoor temperature should be around 20C (70F) for germination. Plant the seeds in separate containers. Start the seeds indoors about a month to six weeks prior to planting outdoors. In our region, we can plant tomatoes outdoors by early June. Remember to harden your young tomato plant before planting in its final location in your garden.

    Hardening off young tomato plants is the process of climatizing from growing indoors to outdoors. Place them in a sheltered location outdoors during the day and bring them in a night for a week. The following week, once the night temperature is above 10C (50F), then start leaving them out overnight for about a week. This helps to harden off your young plants and get them ready for planting in the garden.

    Planting Requirements And Tomato Cages

    Tomatoes need rich, well-draining soil. When planting add compost to the soil and bone meal. Tomatoes need regular, even watering for the best results.

    When planting the young tomato plants, pinch off the seedling leaves and lowest branches. Plant up to where these have been taken off as roots will begin growing from this point.

    At this stage, place the tomato support cage or frame. This will help maintain and strengthen your plant as it grows. Tomato cages are relatively cheap and easy to get in most garden centres. But you can also make your own support too with regular staking using wood or bamboo, and twine.

    Soil Warmth Tip
    In the Pacific Northwest, sometimes, the night temperature can fluctuate and be a little chilly late spring. A tip for keeping the soil warm overnight during the early stages of growth is by placing a gardening black plastic sheet at the base – about 60 cm (24 inches) square piece, cutting out a round section where the plant will grow. This cut out should be big enough for easy watering your plant. The square sheet can be easily kept down with gardening pegs. Once the temperature warms up, remove the plastic sheets.
    Watering And Fertilizing Tomato Plants
    Tomatoes are heavy feeders and need a regular fertilizing schedule, especially once it starts producing fruit. My preference is a tomato organic fertilizer 5-10-10 as it has less nitrogen, which encourages leaf growth.
    Pruning Your Tomato Plant

    Tomato plants need to be pruned. This helps to keep airflow and reduce fungal disease, which can kill your tomato plant. Continue to prune as they grow. Depending on the variety you have planted, pinch off the top of your plant to stop growing. This will help re-focus the energy on producing fruit.

    Harvesting Tomatoes

    Leaving the tomato fruit to ripen on the plant as long as possible is always encouraged.

    Pests And Critters

    Your tomato plant will be a drawn for many garden pests. Whenever possible it is recommended to grow resistent varieties. Check your plants daily to counter any problems early.

    The post How To Grow Tomatoes appeared first on Gardening | Landscaping | Plants | My Garden Plot.

  • be a discerning shopper for native plants, with uli lorimer
    04 July 2020

    AS MORE GARDENERS shop for native plants each year, more plant descriptions in catalogs and on nursery labels use the [read more…]

    The post be a discerning shopper for native plants, with uli lorimer appeared first on A Way To Garden.

  • GardenDC Podcast Episode 18: Shade Gardening, Clematis, and Logging Offline in the Garden
    04 July 2020
    This episode, we talk with Jenny Rose Carey about Shade Gardening. The plant profile is on Clematis and I share my tips for Logging Offline in the Garden.

    BTW, YOU can become a listener supporter for as little as $0.99 per month!See how at: 

    It is also available on -
    • Google Podcasts at this link, either now or soon (note that currently, this link will only work on Android devices)

    We welcome your questions and comments!

    You can leave a voice mail message for us at: Note that we may use these messages on a future episode.
  • What is the Difference Between Stihl vs Husqvarna Trimmer
    04 July 2020

    Lawn maintenance might sound easy but simply using a lawnmower won’t keep your property as neat as possible. Some corners are not reachable with a standard lawnmower – and this is where the trimmer comes in handy.

    With a trimmer, your lawn will be guaranteed a clean look from the center right down to every corner. So, which trimmer should you buy at the retail store?

    To help you make the decision, here is a quick rundown of two brands, namely, the Stihl vs Husqvarna trimmer.


    The post What is the Difference Between Stihl vs Husqvarna Trimmer appeared first on Sumo Gardener.

  • How to Water an Orchid Properly
    04 July 2020

    Orchids are so pretty and decorative, but these delicate flowers require attention to fully blossom. Watering is essential to prevent the roots from drying out or rotting. It is necessary to know when, how, and how often to give it a water supply in order to keep your orchids healthy and able to grow beautiful flowers that enchant your senses; a white orchid in a living room or bathroom infuses an appreciable decorative touch and a lot of freshness.

    What are orchids?

    Beautiful, very delicate flowers, and enchanting fragrant… these are orchids. This flower has always fascinated, since the dawn of time or almost. We appreciate its flowers of various shapes, its colors, and the many existing species. Whether in the garden or planted in pots indoor, the orchid is a superb and very decorative plant.

    The orchid could be considered a true survivor; it grows anywhere, especially in the most unexpected places. They are found in the tropics of course, but also in the permafrost of the tundra and sometimes even underground. It is certainly in this capacity that is due to the fascination that it exerts on man since always.

    The seeds of the orchid escape from the plant, and carried by the wind, they can go very far sometimes. But before this phenomenon takes place, it has a relationship called symbiotic relationship with a specific fungus. It is he who stores minerals and water for his personal needs, but also to ensure the growth of shoots on the orchid. The plant then shares back the sugars from photosynthesis with this fungus.

    Some orchids species

    Some of these plants have large folded leaves and flowers that evoke a little wax in the material and last a long time, as is the case with Lycaste. Its name is taken from that of the Greek nymph. Moreover, legend has it that this flower was dedicated to the daughter of Priam, the last king of Troy.

    Some of the best known orchid species include:

    • The phalaenopsis orchid: It is the first most offered potted plant and is thus nicknamed the queen of plants. It usually blooms twice a year and can last between 1 and 6 months.
    • Oncidium: It shines every year, and has the advantage of withstanding fairly cool temperatures.
    • The hoof of Venus: It can give up to one flower per month for 12 to 24 months.
    The phalaenopsis orchid
    Necessary tools to water Orchids

    To effectively maintain and water your orchid, you need some equipment:

    Plant mister

    A plant mister is an indispensable accessory when growing orchids. It has several functions; like watering the plant and misting the outer roots. When purchasing a plant mister you should better choose a powerful enough mister and opt for an adjustable spray.


    You put fertilizer in the water every two weeks or so to obtain an abundant flowering.

    A gardener’s bucket

    this allows you to soak the plant completely to water it, then take care to let the water drain before putting it back in its decorative pot.

    When to water the orchid?

    The watering of an orchid must be done at the right frequency and at the right time so that it lives as long as possible. This varies during the flowering period and beyond:

    During the flowering period:

    You water your plant on average once a week.

    Check before watering that the substrate is very dry, to put your finger at 2 cm depth. Always let the orchid soil dry between waterings.

    Another method is to weigh the pot, if it seems abnormally light, it probably needs water.

    If your plant is in a transparent plastic pot, look at the roots. As long as they are green and shiny, do not water, however, as soon as they become grey and dull.

    Outside the flowering period

    When the orchid has fallen, it is essential to space the waterings. Generally, it is advisable to do it once every two weeks.

    Our advice: In case of doubt, avoid watering your plant rather than watering it once too much.

    How to water the orchid?

    Before explaining how to water your orchid, be aware that it is best to use water that is not very calcareous:

    • Bottled water that would not contain more than 10 mg of calcium per litre, spring water is particularly recommended.
    • Osmosis water
    • Rainwater that you will have taken care to harvest in a perfectly clean container.
    • Water from your filter carafe.

    Our advice: If you can use tap water from time to time, you should completely ban demineralized or softened water. Indeed, it contains negative ions, very bad for all plants.

    The right watering technique

    Start by completely immersing your plant in a bucket of water.

    Since the heart of the orchid should not be in contact with the water, in any case it is best to avoid it, it is easier to bathe it in order to water it from the bottom. You will do so, preferably in the morning:

    Immerse your plant in a water basin that reaches three-quarters of the pot. The water will be at room temperature. Let your jar soak for about ten minutes until no air bubbles escape.

    Our little tip: every 15 days, except in winter, add a special orchid fertilizer or otherwise a classic fertilizer. In this case, dilute the two to three more than indicated on the package leaflet. Fertilizing this plant ensures longevity and good growth. Nitrogen helps the development of the leaves, while potassium favors the shoots that will give flowers later. Don’t hold your hand too heavy for fertilizer.

    Drain your orchid properly; the roots of the orchid should never be in contact with standing water, they would eventually rot.

    To avoid this:

    • Drain your pot thoroughly once the bath is finished.
    • Wait a few moments before putting it back in its pot holder or cup, making sure that no more water comes out.

    These waterings are part of the maintenance of orchids offering an abundant and regular flowering and above all it allows it to bloom as soon as possible and often more quickly.

    How to water Orchids while on vacation?

    If you leave for about two weeks, your orchid should not suffer. Gather them in a room where you have taken care to close some shutters in order to avoid the space being too hot, but make sure that they still have a contribution of light.

    Before you leave, take a bath with all your orchids and place them in a pot-holder whose bottom will be well covered with clay balls and water.

    Normally, your orchid should always be as beautiful when you return!

    Why you should spray orchids regularly?

    In addition to regular watering, it is necessary to spray the orchid which particularly appreciates this care. This delicate flower does not like excess water, but on the other hand, it likes humid environments. Especially in summer or when the air is dry due to heating, it is best to spray rainwater or spring water on its leaves and exposed roots. The rest of the time, it is not necessarily indispensable and even not recommended. What you can do, however, is place the pot on a bed of clay and water, but it should not be bathed in.

    To spray your plant:

    • Use water that is not calcareous as for watering, otherwise, your leaves will be tarnished by white traces left by the limestone when it dries.
    • Just burn the leaves and the apparent roots, but never the flowers and the heart of your plant.
    • Do this operation preferably in the morning, three times a week when the atmosphere is very dry, in winter with heating or in summer when high temperatures settle.
    Mistakes to avoid

    The cultivation of orchids remains relatively simple provided to avoid some mistakes. Among the most frequent, we make a list of those that must absolutely be banned to obtain healthy plants.

    Do not water too often and excessively

    Even if this plant has its origins in tropical countries, the watering must be balanced and moderate. Otherwise, your orchid may die from rotting roots.

    Do not abuse using a fertilizer specially designed for orchids

    It is best to opt for this fertilizer which is precisely dosed. Do not abuse it and respect the dosages indicated to avoid that the excess does not kill your pretty plant. If she does not die, she will suffer and will not give a flower in the year.

    Do not expose your orchids to frost

    Even if some species tolerate very low temperatures, frost is their worst enemy. Keep your orchids away from bay windows and windows when it is very cold outside.

    Do not expose it directly to the sunlight

    If the orchid doesn’t like the gel, it’s the same for the sun. She hates being placed directly in contact with the sun’s rays, even if she enjoys the heat. In this case, the leaves begin to wilt, then it is the roots and you will only have your eyes to cry.

    Do not spray the leaves when it is hot

    To keep beautiful green and shiny leaves, it is recommended to spray them regularly, every two or three days when the air is very dry.

    Do not neglect to choose the substrate

    Opt for a substrate dedicated to the orchid and avoid gorging it with water. It must be perfectly aerated in order to support your plant.

    Do not forget to aerate the plant

    The orchid in pot and grown indoors needs to be aerated regularly and as often as possible. In summer, don’t hesitate to take it out from time to time and in winter, ventilate your room well. Let some air circulate.

    Do not neglect to choose the right pot of your plant

    Pot or vase? The question often comes up. If you like vase orchids, be careful to choose it very deep so that the roots do not bathe in water after watering. The choice of the pot is simpler, the orchids enjoy in the transparent plastic pots that you will then put in a nice pot cover, highlighting the plant.

    Do not prune your orchid without minimum knowledge

    After flowering, if the plant is healthy, it can bloom very quickly from the end of the stem, its base, or one of the nodes located on the stem. The most effective, once the flowers are wilted is to cut the stem just below the first flower to 2 cm above the next knot that can then bloom after 6 or 7 weeks. If the stem looks dry and wilted at the top, but the rest is green, cut it from the 3rd knot from below, always 2 cm above. If your plant has bloomed a lot, it may be that the whole stem is dried; in this case, cut it at the base of the leaves, anyway, it will not leave.

    The post How to Water an Orchid Properly appeared first on Backward Garden.

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